‘Wellness’ Facade Aside, the Equinox Hotel Restaurant Serves Destination-Worthy Fare

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The flagship restaurant at NYC's shiny new Equinox Hotel is impressive, even for those not dropping $2,000 on a two-night stay at the sleek temple to Wellness

, recommends a flax seed and sweet potato bowl following a few sets of reverse squats. This is, to be fair, all what one might expect at Hudson Yards’s Equinox Hotel, a self-proclaimed “temple to total regeneration” with a 60,000-square-foot gym.

The kitchen stuffs squishy breakfast sandwiches with heady chicken sausage and pairs them with side salads instead of home fries. Christ. A pre-shift manual for waiters, left near a window, offers a primer on carrot juice and beets , as well as a list of VIPs staying at the hotel. Among them: Dolph Lundgren and some tech VP.

And the venue, by mega-restaurateur Stephen Starr — who runs some of the city’s finest French restaurants, and Buddakan — has one hell of a view.without understanding its larger missteps, particularly the fact that the entire compound functions as a taxpayer-subsidized bastion for the rich. But one shouldn’t forget a smaller failure that plagues so much about dining here, which is that almost almost every restaurant overlooks the mall, or worse, the glistening selfie machine that is the Vessel.

Even as the weather turns cooler, outside is the ideal setting for a meal. Try kicking things off with a ramekin of razor clams. Chef Kyle Knall tames the brine with a pungent pickled carrot and cilantro broth. As the wind picks up, a staffer swings by with blankets to counteract the cold. This is the time to warm up with roasted oysters. Knall gently smokes the bivalves in their shells, infusing them with the sweet scent of hay. A touch of shallot mignonette tames the brine.

 

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