What a woo-woo L.A. supermarket beloved by celebrities says about our culture

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The wild success of natural grocer Erewhon is where the cult of wellness converges with the plague of misinformation

If you are ever in Los Angeles, forget about Disneyland, Venice Beach and the Getty art museum. The place you really must visit is Erewhon. Erewhon is essentially nowhere spelled backward – and nowhere says more about where our culture is heading than this place.

The cult has spread from California to every corner of North America and, indeed, the globe in recent years, enlisting millions of eager adherents. Instead of putting cash on the collection plate, they demonstrate their faith by tapping their credit cards at the cashier for concoctions like Ms. Bieber’s beloved Strawberry Glaze smoothie

The chain has become a must-go destination for foodies, tourists, fitness freaks, showbiz folk and influencers. Model Bella Hadid visited the Santa Monica location in January to mix up a signature drink of her own. “Hi guys, we’re here at Erewhon,” she said on TikTok. “We’re making our new creamsicle Bella Kin Smoothie!”

It would be easy to laugh off the Erewhon phenomenon as just another example of good old California goofiness. We certainly had fun on our little tour of this woo-woo wonderland. The store was beautifully designed, the products artfully displayed, the staff friendly and helpful. And the Bieber smoothie: delicious.

 

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