My grandmother was coeliac in a time when no one knew what it meant. I think of her each time I buy my son’s spelt loaf

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Eating out in the 1980s was a minefield for my grandmother, who battled poor health for most of her life. How she would have loved the gluten-free era

‘I feel like my grandmother is here with me again. I imagine sharing my gluten-free cake recipes with her and watching the glee on her face as I show her the gluten-free supermarket aisle.’‘I feel like my grandmother is here with me again. I imagine sharing my gluten-free cake recipes with her and watching the glee on her face as I show her the gluten-free supermarket aisle.’Late in her life, my beloved grandmother was diagnosed with coeliac disease.

Even as a young girl, I knew how frail my grandmother was. She was thin and hunched, with translucent skin waxy to the touch. She was completely bald, or rather, she was bald with sparse strands of steely hair that sprung up all over her scalp – a consequence of her cancer.She owned an eclectic collection of silk scarfs and turbans in peacock green or leopard print, which she always wore in company. Even walking to and from the car, she wore her wide-brimmed pink straw hat. It was not vanity.

For special occasions, our family did an impressive line of modified treats. Coconut macaroons, pavlova, and ice-cream birthday cakes. My mother developed an ice-cream plum pudding with brandy-soaked fruit that she made every year at Christmas.Every month, my grandfather ordered a box of gluten-free bread mix, which arrived in the mail from the Coeliac Society. Every week, he baked a fresh loaf of pale, crumbly bread. Why he baked it and not her, I don’t know.

When my children were eight, one of my sons developed chronic diarrhoea. It wasn’t until we ordered pizza one night and he began staggering around doubled over in pain that the penny dropped.“I never want to eat pizza again,” he said.

 

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I was diagnosed a coeliac at 2 in 1959. My mother made everything like corn flake biscuits, egg custards and there was only 1 brand of ice cream I could eat. We followed a Mediterranean diet. There was less processed food then but birthday parties were a big challenge.

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