Grilling With Vinegar: Whole Fish Gets the Churrascaria Treatment

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Molho à campanha provides a welcome crunch and a palate-cleansing bite to grilled fish.

The main difference between the two is that molho turns to white wine vinegar for acidity, whereas pico gets it from citrus fruit. In both cases, the bright, fresh flavors work really well with the deep char of seared meat. And since they also reminded me a bit of the components of a ceviche, I thought, Why the heck not pair them with grilled fish? Plus, they're so colorful and vibrant, they'd really bedeck a branzino.

I decided to do an experiment. I made two identical salsas with tomatoes, onions, peppers, and herbs. In one went lemon juice and in the other went white wine vinegar. Both went into the fridge, whereupon I ate them with tortilla chips for the next few days. I found that the one made with citrus seemed to degrade the texture of tomatoes more quickly, whereas the vinegar did a much better job of leaving the tomatoes firm and intact.

White wine vinegar is particularly great for molho, because it doesn't mess as much with the colors of the vegetables they way red wine vinegar can, dying everything a cloudy hue. Spooned onto grilled fish, molho à campanha provides a welcome crunch, providing a palate-cleansing bite for even the oily, fishy varieties like mackerel. Given how well it holds in the refrigerator, you can make molho ahead, and then set it on the table while you're grilling, just long enough to take off the chill and let the flavors bloom.

 

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