“Hedi Slimane’s passion for the dress codes of the Parisian bourgeoisie of the 1970s continued unabated into fall 2020. Shedding a rare chink of light on something personal, the enigmatic creative director dedicated the collection ‘’ in his show notes. What did his mother wear when Slimane was growing up in Paris? Was it something like the idealized Celine collection he sent out this time? That wouldn’t be surprising, because everyone did back then.
Galliano’s ‘Recicla’ label is a step on from the ‘Replica’ reeditions of vintage clothing that Martin Margiela originated at the house, making sure to print the date of provenance on the label. Galliano’s purpose in studying vintage pieces is different: He lops and excavates structures to discover new forms, often ‘freeze-framing’ work in progress. And so, with this collection, ‘instead of slavishly copying,’ he decided that studio-reworked charity shop finds deserve to be sold as they are.
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